The 60-second tie quality test

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A dress-up affair this past weekend has led to today’s blog entry. As I was knotting my date’s tie, it became clear that too many men only consider the necktie a symbol of conformity. While it is meant solely for ornamentation, the tie is the best way to indulge and reflect your personality. It’s the easiest way to express your personal taste and so why not enjoy that massive variety of colors, fabrics, textures and patterns that are available. The tie is meant to be worn as a sort of personal signature, so why not wear it that way?

A tie should not only reflect your personal taste but be appropriate for the occasion to which you’re wearing it. But of the first things you should take in to consideration is the quality. So, below is your 60-second tie quality test for the next time you feel like indulging:

Fabric: The tie fabric should be both luxurious and substantial with a thick weave. The absolute best route is a fine silk but keep in mind you get what you pay for. A cheap tie that is made of cheap silks and synthetics will always look cheap.
Lining: Important in tying a great knot. It’s the inside strip of a tie that the shell fabric is sewn to. It should run all the way down the neckband of a tie and should also produce a roll or slight curve at the tie’s edge. Keep in mind that if the fabric or silk is a thick weave, the lining should be lightweight and vice-versa.
Print: Make sure the print and pattern of your tie is crisp and sharp. If it’s not, it’s either a cheap print or the tie is made of an inferior quality of silk.
Three-piece Construction: Make sure your tie is made of three parts: the apron (front wide piece), the neckband (the center piece) and the backpiece (the tie’s skinny end).
Bias-cut fabric: The fabric of a tie should be cut on a 45-degree angle, or the bias. Cutting a tie on the bias prevents the fabric from twisting on itself when you wear it. The easiest way to check for this is to drape the apron over your arm and if the tie hangs with no twisting, you’re good to go.
Bartacks: The bartack is a thread that is stitched across the main seam for reinforcement. A quality tie should have a bartack on each end with tightly twisted threads.
Slipstitch: Like the spine of a tie keeping the tie’s shape. The slipstitch is a long thread that runs the length of the tie and is secured to the shell-fabric by a knot at each end. One of the most important elements in the construction of a tie, the slipstitch can be found by spreading open the back of the apron. Without it, the tie won’t drape properly and will be harder to tie.
Loop: The loop is the strip of fabric you slide the backpiece through when you wear the tie. A sign of a well-made tie is when the loop is made of the same fabric as the rest of the tie and is sewn on by hand. However, a lot of manufacturers use their label for the loop (which is acceptable). If a loop is sewn on by hand, it is stitched to the outer fabric by its four corners rather than by vertical stitches across the edges.
Label: As mentioned, most labels also serve as the loop but others sew their labels on the backpiece. Just make sure your tie has one.
Tipping: Tipping is that small piece of fabric that is visible in the openings at the back of the apron. Like the lining, it should run the length of the tie. A sign of superior quality is when the tipping is made of the same fabric and pattern as the shell, however most tipping is made from artificial fabrics.
Seam Stitch: This is the thread that holds together the main seam. You want to see hand-stitching here and the way to discover that is to examine how even or uneven the stitching is. Stitching that is not quite uniformly spaced or even is usually a sign that it was done by hand.